Taste: Dastarkhan of Iftar in Ramadan
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In the holy month of Ramadan, faithful Muslims fast for the whole month, they do not even drink water throughout the day. Prophet Muhammad had given this instruction to his followers for the practice of self-discipline. After the evening prayers, this fast, called roza, is ‘broken’ – by eating a date and drinking water or sherbet. After this, the eating and drinking of ‘Iftar’ begins to provide refreshment to the thirsty body and to provide necessary nutrition before the next day’s fast. Non-Muslim acquaintances and friends are also included in this.
The message of sharing and sharing food with the underprivileged according to their status comes from this tradition. In recent years, politicians have started organizing Iftar parties for the purpose of public relations – to woo minority voters in electoral politics. Different types of Kebabs, Biryani, Korma are served in these seasonal feasts, due to which the misconception has started that Iftar’s Dastarkhan is mainly of non-vegetarian dishes.
The reality is that along with traditional dates, haleem, seviyan, local flavors are also given importance in various provinces and there is abundance of vegetarian snacks. Fruit chaat, dahi-vada, boiled gram dal chaat, dumplings, samosas, chhunki matar are prominent among them. The reason for this is not difficult to understand. After a long fast, suddenly a heavy load of fat-rich food cannot be put on the stomach. This is the role of Sehri, which is eaten before sunrise. If we look at the dishes of Iftar, then it is also clear that sour-sweet, bitter-spicy, salty-astringent tastes are reflected in them, that is, it is Shadras snack.
The whole scene is the same as seen in the fruit plate of Navratri. Potato tikki, tamarind khat-mitti, dry ginger and coriander-mint-green chilli chutney on top of curd elders, spreads the sourness of lemon or amiya. A hint of bitterness can be tasted by the tip of the tongue in the tempering of fenugreek seeds. In the name of spices, freshly roasted and ground cumin seeds add life to chana dal chaat and vadas.
Tastes which are voluntarily sacrificed throughout the day, taste them in Iftar and get satisfaction. Yes, the glory of sherbets is unique. Mango panna, bel-false sherbet, shikanji were earlier prepared at home. Hibiscus and almond syrup and thandai too. In the first decade of the 20th century, Sharbat Rooh-Afza, made from juices of vegetables and fruits, claiming to be rich in their natural properties, was invented in Delhi. Since then it has spread across the subcontinent. After fasting, it has become a custom to mix it in lassi, shikanji, milkshake etc. to moisten the dry throat. Now-a-days some hosts also offer pizza, cheese cake, pancake in their Iftar feast, the condition is that all the ingredients are halal, not forbidden.
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